 |
| |
Needles |
|
 Special Note: Magic Dragon/Magician descent |
|
| Ankles Away/Pegleg |
Anchor replaced. |
08/06 |
Clint Cummins |
| Atlantis |
Pulled 3, placed 4 -- 2nd & 3rd pitch belays. |
09/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Charlatan Summit Spire
anchor |
Replaced both bolts. |
08/05 |
Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann |
| Bad Fortune |
Replaced anchor on pitch 1; replace 3 protection bolts. |
07/07 |
Steve Bullock |
Danse Macabre/Fantasia/left start to Broomsticks |
First 2 protection
bolts replaced
(third is good). |
08/05 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann, Josh Janes, Gina Hoag |
| Don Juan Wall |
Replaced anchors on pitch 3 and pitch 4. |
2009 |
Kris Solem |
| Dulldrills |
Replaced bolts and shared anchor for Lumpy Fish. |
2009 |
Kris Solem |
| Fancy Free |
Anchor pitch 2 replaced. |
08/05 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Frustration With The
Redhead |
First 3 pro bolts replaced. |
08/05 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Great White Direct |
Replaced anchor at the top of pitch 1. |
2009 |
Kris Solem |
| Ice Pirates |
Repalced pitch 2 anchor. |
07/07 |
Stev bullock |
| Imaginary Voyage |
Pitch 2 protection bolt
and anchor bolt replaced. |
08/05 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Jughead |
First pro bolt pitch
2 replaced (2 more old bolts higher). |
08/05 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann, Josh Janes, Gina Hoag |
| Lost At Sea |
Replaced 2 anchor bolts with Fixe double ring hangers |
09/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Lumpy the Fish |
Replaced bolts and shared anchor for Dulldrills. |
2009 |
Kris Solem |
| Poof |
Replaced the bolt. |
08/05 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Pyrotechnics |
Replaced both protection bolts with 1/2" bolts |
09/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Rap From Sorcerer |
Pulled extra 1/4" bolt and patched hole |
09/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Red Snapper |
Replaced pitch 1 anchor. Note: there are only 3 bolts, not 5, on this pitch. |
07/07 |
Steve Bullock |
| Scirocco |
Replaced 3 bolts
on pitch 2, Five extra 1/4" bolts removed. All bolts
on this route are 3/8" or larger; the huge angle-iron
bolt on the 2nd pitch has a giant 3/8" buttonhead bolt
which would be nearly impossible to remove without major
damage to the rock. |
06/04 |
Greg Barnes |
| Spontaneous Combustion |
Replaced both protection bolts with 1/2" bolts |
09/02 |
Greg Barnes |
| Spooky |
Anchor on pitch 1
replaced. |
08/05 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Wailing Banshees |
Replaced the protection bolt with a 1/2" bolt |
09/02 |
Greg Barnes |
| Wicked |
First protection bolt
replaced. |
08/05 |
Greg Barnes, Josh
Janes |
|
| |
Special Note, Magic Dragon/Magician descent:
Please note that climbers are NOT permitted to enter the USFS fire lookout tower on Magician Needle after 6pm on Wednesday-Sunday, or at all on Monday or Tuesday. The tower is a private residence,
and one climber even broke out a window accidentally one night, from the rack swinging into a window after hopping the railing. Because this is the top-out for the Needles' longest, and one
of the most moderate, routes (Magic Dragon, 12-pitch 5.8), it is common for climbing parties to finish after 6pm.
In June 2003, the Southern Sierra Climbers Association & ASCA added a new 2-station bolted rap route to the upper west face of the Magician Needle. This rappel is set up for rapping with
a single 60m rope, although it can be done with a single 50m (see details and pictures below). The upper rap station is 15 feet straight below the SW corner of the tower railing, on the S side
of the "Wave" of rock. This is the left end of the "sidewalk" that you reach immediately after doing the 5.8 section of the last pitch. Rap 90' down and left to the next
bolts, which are between the two lightning cables. This is close to the end of the rope, so tie knots. Then, rap 50' down and left to a dirt platform behind a big flake. If you rap straight
down, it's 90' to the ground at the big tree, but more annoying to scramble up the top of the gully.
Also, there are slings around a great constriction at the end of the ramp (blue arrow, before the 5.8 pitch). If you rap from the upper bolts to here, then to the lower bolts, then stay left
on the last rap to the flake, the rap can be done with a single 50m rope.
Note the green lines, which indicate the lightning cables. You rap past the right one, which ends just above the level of the second bolted station (green circle). Don't pull on the cables,
since people pulling on the lightning cables have damaged the top of the tower and compromised the electrical safety in the tower, which was built in 1938! Please use the rappel stations, and
don't impose on the lookout after hours. This will also help avoid any friction with the US Forest Service, which could result in climbing access problems. |
|
|
|
 |
