| Achilles |
All bolts replaced. |
06/10 |
Logan Talbott, Matthew Smith, Dave Alfrey |
| Ages Apart |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| Alchemist's Re-vision |
Replaced all bolts, removed extra bolt at triple-bolt belay station. |
10/02 |
Greg Barnes, Rachel Arst |
| Alien |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| Alive at Leads |
Replaced 1 pro bolt. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| American Wet Dream |
Replaced the protection
bolt; exchanged Leeper on a previously replaced 3/8" bolt
at 3rd pitch belay with modern hanger. |
03/01 |
Austin Archer, Karin
Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes |
| Apparition |
Replaced one bolt at
pitch 1 anchor. All other bolts previously replaced. One bolt
exists at the top of pitch 2 just before the traverse right
to the crack, but this bolt is not shown on the topo. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Aqua Knobby |
Replaced the bolt. |
06/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Arch Rival |
Replaced the protection
bolt, removed excess bolt. |
2003 |
Austin Archer, Greg
Barnes |
| Arms Race/Easy Wind |
Anchor replaced: A 1/4"
bolt, large bong, and slings around chockstones replaced with
two bolts. |
07/02 |
Jack Hoeflich |
| Auschwitz |
(old YMS toprope area in Olmstead Canyon above and right of Broken Arrow) 5-bad-bolt anchor replaced with 2 good bolts; extra 3 bolts removed.
|
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Barely Anything |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| Batteries Not Included |
2nd protection bolt,
a 5/16" buttonhead with rusty Leeper hanger, replaced. |
07/02 |
Roger Brown, Greg
Barnes |
| Bearded Clam |
Replaced anchor. |
10/03 |
Greg Barnes |
Beginner's Route, Lembert Dome |
Replaced 1 bolt. Protection
bolt is 3/8". All anchors take bomber natural gear.
|
09/98 |
Greg Barnes |
| Big Boys Don't Cry |
All bolts replaced by
the ASCA in 9/98 and 9/00
The topo erroneously shows a 4th bolt on p2; there are only
3 bolts. |
09/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Big Dog Hammer |
Both protection bolts
replaced (2002).
Repalced 2 pro bolts (2006).
|
08/02,
2006
|
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann (2002), Roger Brown (2006) |
| Bikes on Dikes |
Replaced 1 pro bolt. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Black Bart |
Replaced all bolts. |
07/05 |
Tuolumne SAR folks |
| Black Diamond |
1 bolt replaced: the
bolt shown as "broken bolt". NOTE: the first bolt
indicated is NOT there, there are only three bolts on the pitch,
and the "broken bolt" is the first. |
06/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Black Leather |
Replaced 5 pro bolts. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Black Light |
Replaced pitch 1 anchor. The pro bolts are currently all bad. |
10/11 |
Greg Barnes |
| Block, The |
Replaced old messy anchor with 2 good bolts. Old anchor had one 1/4" bolt, one pin, and loads of webbing around various chockstones on a ledge. |
08/11 |
Greg Barnes, Joe Denicola |
| Blood Test |
Replaced the protection
bolt. |
10/00 |
Greg barnes |
| Blues Riff |
Added a bolt on pitch
1 to protect face climbing to the left of original start, where
a 20' x 10' x 5' block fell off; replaced the 2 bolts at start
of crux pitch with one bolt to the left in better rock. New
start is 5.10c and somewhat loose and chossy; pro from TCUs
to 3". Tuolumne SAR folks 1999 (new bolt pitch 1), Greg
Barnes 2001. |
1999, 2001
|
Tuolumne SAR folks
1999, Greg Barnes & Wally Barker 2001. |
| Bombs Over Tokyo |
All bolts on free variation
replaced. There are 4 old bolts and 3 pins on the aid variation
to the third pitch. The topo is incomplete; the second pitch
5.11d R has RP placements 20' off the belay and a (newly replaced)
fixed #1 knifeblade 40' off the belay. The third pitch free
variation (5.12c) has a pin, then a horizontal traverse to the
right just above the roof past 7 bolts to the anchor. The 4th
pitch is 5.10d and has 5 bolts, two fixed pins, and thin pro
to a 1-bolt anchor at a thin crack on a ledge (pro to 1.5"
plus the bolt for anchor). The 5th pitch ascends a 5.8 thin
crack to a headwall that can be bypassed on the left or way
to the right at 5.9. An overhung thin crack straight up at the
headwall may or may not have been climbed. |
1998, 06/02 08/02 |
Derek Larson/1998.
Upper pitches: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Roger Brown |
| Bull Dike |
Replaced old bolted anchor (not shown in guide). |
2006 |
Roger Brown,
Bryan Law |
| Breathing Hard |
First pitch belay anchor, a single rusty ¼” bolt, replaced with 2 bolts.
|
08/06 |
Greg Barnes, George Ridgely, Linda |
| By Hook or By Crook |
Replaced all remaining
bad bolts, and replaced Leeper hangers with new hangers on 3/8"
bolts. |
06/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Bye Spy |
Replaced 1 pro bolt. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Carpet Crawler |
Replaced all bolts. |
07/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann, Roger Brown |
| The Castoff |
|
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| Ciebolla |
Replaced 20 protection
bolts. All protection bolts are 3/8". |
1998 |
Derek Larson |
| Climbing Club |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| The Coming |
Replaced the 34-year-old
bolt. Note that the rappel to Come and Get It from the top of
the 3rd pitch is off of fixed nuts that may or may not be there,
and the rap is 190' NOT 150'. You can
rap 150' to a ledge, then 40' to Come and Get It, by leaving
LONG slings around a large block.
|
08/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Continuation |
Pulled 2 bolts and
1 piton, placed 3--All bolts bomber. |
05/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Cooke Book |
Replaced bolt on middle
variation start (5.9 R). |
06/02 |
Greg barnes |
| Cornhole |
Replaced one bolt at p2 anchor. Click here for trip report with photos |
09/11 |
Tony Lewis, Jay wood |
| Creep Show |
Replaced First pro bolt; 2nd could not be located. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Crescent Arch |
Re-seated fixed pin
on last pitch headwall; pin is bomber. |
09/01 |
Greg abarnes |
| Cry'n Time Again |
11 bolts replaced by
Tuolumne SAR in 1998 and Greg Barnes 10/00. |
1998, 10/00 |
Tuolumne SAR, Greg
barnes |
| Cucamonga Honey |
Top pitch replaced by
Paul Belkis & Greg DeMatteo in 1997-98; 3 bolts replaced
by Derek Larson and ASCA in 1998. Whole route now bomber. |
1997, 1998 |
Paul Belkis, Greg Dematteo,
Dereck Larson |
| Curve Like Her |
Replaced the key pro bolt and the old rusty piton (with a new piton), plus the anchor. Another pro bolt was left as a historical bolt since there is modern pro right near it. Click here for trip report with photos |
09/11 |
Tony Lewis, Jay Wood |
| Daddy's Little Girl |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| DAFF North rap anchor |
Rap anchor replaced. |
06/10 |
Jonathan duSaint, Greg Barnes |
| Darth Vader's Revenge |
Replaced 2 bolts; All
protection bolts and belay bolts are bomber. |
08/99 |
Greg Barnes |
| Death Crack |
Removed extra 1/4"
bolt at anchor. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Deimos |
Replaced the protection
bolt on pitch 3; this 1/4" bolt fell out in the mid 1990s,
but was definitely original, and the replaced bolt is in the
original (expanded) hole. Note that a wasp had made a mud-capped
nest in the 1/4" hole, so that it appeared that the 1/4" hole
had been "patched." |
08/04 |
Greg Barnes |
| Diaphoretic Spasms |
Replaced all bolts.
Fixed nut/knot jam rap station replaced with bolted rappel anchor.
First bolt had been replaced earlier with a 1/4" Diamond
Taper and stainless SMC hanger; this bolt pulled easily. |
07/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Dike Route |
2 bolts replaced: 1
at first anchor, 1 at first protection bolt. |
10/00 05/02 |
Greg Barnes |
| Dinky Doink |
Replaced 4 pro bolts. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Dixie Peach/Mosquito |
Replaced one bolt at
pitch 2 anchor (30' right and down from p3 belay of Great White
Book). Note: Additional replacement done in 2005 by Roger Brown. |
09/01,
2005 |
Greg Barnes
Roger Brown (2005) |
| Do Or Fly |
Pulled 2, placed 1 anchor
bolts. |
08/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Dos Equis |
Replaced 2 pro bolts. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Double Stuff |
Replaced 3 protection
bolts; fixed pin before 1st bolt re-seated. |
10/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Dreams |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| The Dude |
Replaced all 4 bolts. |
2003 |
Greg Barnes |
| Ease On It |
Replaced all 3 bolts. |
08/02 |
Greg Barnes |
| East Cottage Dome Regular
Route |
Replaced the
pitch 2 protection bolt and one bolt at the pitch 1 anchor
(other bolt is old 1/4"). The anchor shown in the Reid/Falkenstein topo is actually the second pitch anchor of Flintstone |
10/03 |
Greg Barnes |
| El Condor |
Replaced 3 anchor bolts
with one good bolt; a 4th bolt was already good. A protection
bolt 10' left of the anchor also replaced. NOTE: An unknown
party reportedly added a protection bolt on the first pitch
recently.
|
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Elephant's Massacre |
All three bolts replaced.
The topo incorrectly shows 4 bolts on this route. There is excellent
thin pro where the topo shows the 3rd bolt. A mass of rap slings
is at the roof near the top, but great cracks lead all the way
to the true top. |
08/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Fairest of All |
All bolts replaced. |
2010 |
Logan Talbott et al |
| Faux Pas |
Replaced eight bolts (4 belay, 4 protection). |
08/06 |
Bruce Hildenbrand,
Clint Cummins |
| Fiddler on the Roof |
Replaced 3 pro bolts
p1, and the 2 bolt anchor on top of pitch 1 (which may take
2 pitches to reach if a belay is set in the corner). Topo misses
this anchor- it's not shown as bolted. Please note that there
is an unknown face with 2 old bolts left of the first pitch. |
06/08 |
Joe Denicola, Greg
Barnes |
| Fingertips |
Replaced 3 bolts--2
of these on the direct start-route complete. Anchor on top backed
up with a 3/8 bolt and ring hanger. |
1998 |
Jerry Anderson |
| Fireworks |
Replaced in the '90s before the ASCA was formed, the bolts and anchor are fine. All other bolts on neighboring routes in the area are bad. |
|
|
| First Verse |
All bolts replaced, and single bolt belay replaced with two good bolts with FA permission. |
10/10 |
Bryan Law |
| Flintstone |
Replaced all bolts 1st pitch (2005). Replaced 2nd pitch bolts (2007). |
2005 |
Bryan Law (2005)
Greg Barnes,
Bryan Law (2007)
|
| Foolish Pleasures |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| Footnote |
Replaced all bolts. |
05/01 |
Greg Barnes, Maggie
Merchant |
| Foott Route |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| 14 Karat |
All remaining bad bolts
replaced. |
2003 |
Rachel Arst |
| Fort Knox |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| Friends in High Places |
Replaced anchor. |
2007 |
Greg Barnes |
| Full House |
One bolt added at anchor, and hanger replaced on one original bolt. Remaining anchor bolt is 5/16" buttonhead with bent hanger. The second pro bolt currently has an old thin SMC hanger which is suspect. |
09/10 |
Greg Barnes, Brian Bennett |
| General Shorty |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| Get Sick |
All 3 protection bolts
and 2 anchor bolts of first pitch replaced. Second pitch has
bad bolts. Update: Replaced all bolts on 2nd pitch (2005). |
07/02, 07/03,
2006 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann (2002, 03 ,05),
Roger Brown (2006) |
| Golden Bars |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
Golfer's Route |
Replaced 3 poor 3/8" bolts; all others good. |
2005 |
Bryan Law |
| Golden Dawn, Mt. Watkins |
All bolts (23) replaced
by Dustin Clark and Urmas Franosch, as well as 3 bolts along
the approach rappel route. Replacement done with personal gear,
and Urmas was one of the FA team 20 years ago - a big THANKS
to these guys! NOTE This route usually approached from Hwy 120
near Tuolumne, so we've included it both in the Valley and Tuolumne
sections. |
09/03 |
Dustin Clark, Urmas
Franosch |
| Golfer's Route |
Replaced 3 Leeper hangers
with Fixe hangers. |
10/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| G-spot |
Replaced 1 pro bolt. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Route right of Golfer's
Route |
Anchor replaced (3
pulled, 2 placed). |
10/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Great Circle |
Replaced 3 bolts. All
belay's have 3/8" bolts.
|
1998 |
Jerry Anderson |
| Great Pumpkin |
4 bolts replaced and
2 extra bolts removed at belays. All bolts on this excellent
runout route are bomber. There is a good 5/16" bolt at
the first pitch belay that is not shown on the topo. Hollow
pro before hard moves to the right on the second pitch should
be backed up by multiple pieces, and Screamers are recommended.
Using the optional low anchor for the last pitch (60' above
the huge ledge) is recommended since a long factor 2 fall on
the upper anchor is possible. |
07/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Great White Book |
Replaced bolt at pitch
3 belay; now two good bolts. REMOVED bolts at pitch 4 anchor;
these bad bolts were not original and only 6' right of a perfect
1/2-1" crack. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Grenade Launcher |
Replaced all 3 bolts. |
2003 |
Greg barnes |
| Grey Ghost |
Replaced all 3 bolts. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Groundout |
Replaced both bots. |
2003 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Half & Half |
Replaced 3 pro bolts. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Harlot |
Replaced the top anchor with 2 bolts (formerly a 1-bolt belay with no possible backup). Click here for trip report with photos |
09/11 |
Tony Lewis, Jay Wood |
| Harpole and the Hendersons |
Replaced webbing with
Mussy hooks. |
2002 |
Austin Archer, Greg
Barnes |
| Head Rush |
Replaced 3 protection
bolts. |
10/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Heart Of Stone |
Replaced most bolts. |
|
Mike Shafer, Benjamin
Kumli, Trevor and others from YMS and Tuolumne SAR. |
| Heinous |
Replaced all bolts. |
07/05 |
Bob Jensen |
| Helter Skelter |
Replaced the first bolt,
all others 5/16” or 3/8”. |
2003 |
Austin Archer. Greg
Barnes |
| Hemispheres |
Replaced all 1/4"
bolts with 3/8" in the late 80's |
|
Scott Burke and Friend |
| Here's Johnny |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| Higgy Stardust |
Replaced all bolts. |
07/02 |
Rojer Brown, Greg Barnes |
| Hired Drill |
Replaced 2 pro bolts. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Hobbit Book |
Replaced the bolt. |
1998 |
Jerry Anderson |
| Honeymoon's Over/Guide Cracks |
Replaced both anchors. |
2005 |
Bryan Law |
| Hoodwink |
Replaced 3 protection
bolts. All belays have 3/8" bolts or bomber natural gear.
Replaced rap anchor to the left of the top of pitch one. Replaced
first protection bolt on last pitch. Second protection bolt
is a hangerless 1/4" bolt, but is only 3' above the first
bolt. All other bolts 3/8" except one funky 5/16"
bolt at the top anchor.
|
06/01 |
Derek Larson, Greg
DeMatteo, Greg Barnes |
| Hog Wash |
1 in 1 out-route complete
("one old bolt FELL out when I clipped in the funkness
but before I jerked!! This protected a fairly run 10c section.")
All funky aluminum hangers replaced, too. |
|
Jerry Anderson |
| House Calls |
Replaced 2nd pitch anchor |
07/05 |
Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| The Hustler |
Replaced 3rd bolt, first
2 are good. |
2003 |
Greg Barnes |
| House Calls |
2 bolts replaced: first
pitch protection bolts. NOTE: the first bolt, a hangerless 1/4",
is NOT shown in the topo. It is located about 20' right and
15' above the first bolt on the Dike Route. The 2nd pitch anchor
is two very bad bolts, but the anchor for the second pitch of
Zee Tree, a newer route to the right, is only 20 feet below
and right, and easily reached. |
05/02 |
Greg Barnes |
| Hyperspace/Royal Flush/Space Ranger |
One bolt replaced at anchor. |
10/10 |
Greg Barnes, Paul Rasmussen |
| Inevitable Conclusions |
Replaced both protection
bolts, and re-seated the fixed pin, on the underside of the
crux roof (the topo does not show these bolts). No bolts replaced
above roof. |
06/08 |
Joe Denicola, Greg
Barnes |
| Integration |
The single ancient protection
bolt replaced on this old-school 5.9 (Royal Robbins) dike route. |
08/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Inverted Staircase |
3 bolts replaced by
Derek Larson, Matt Baker and ASCA in 1998; two protection bolts
up high replaced by Lawrence Garcia and friend in 2002. |
1998 |
Derek Larson, Matt
Baker, Lawrence Garcia and friend (2002) |
| Itchy Scratchy |
Webbing replaced with
Mussy hooks. |
2002 |
Austin Archer, Greg
Barnes |
| It Is Finished |
Replaced 3 bolts. All
funky aluminum hangers replaced. |
|
Jerry Anderson |
| Joe Mamba |
Replaced all bolts.
The rap anchor, a 1/4" bolt backing up slings around loose
chockstones, replaced with 2 bolts. |
07/02 |
Rojer Brown, Greg Barnes |
| Kamps Couch |
Replaced the protection
bolt on first pitch (not shown on topo) and one bolt at the
anchor. Remaining anchor bolt is an old 1/4". |
08/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Kill Pickle |
All protection bolts
and one anchor bolt replaced on this very high-quality runout
route (under-starred in guide). Other anchor bolt is 1/4"
with stainless SMC hanger. Third protection bolt was doubled;
these two 1/4" bolts were replaced with a single 3/8"
bolt. |
07/02 |
Greg Barnes |
| Knobb Roulette |
Replaced the bolt. |
08/02 |
Greg Barnes |
| Lamb Chops |
Replaced all bolts. |
2003 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes |
| Lament |
Replaced the bolt (prot.
bolt last pitch). A fixed pin with partially broken eye is 12'
up and right from the bolt; this pin will likely break, but
could not be removed. RPs and thin nuts can be used to protect
this area, although bomber protection would likely require bringing
thin pitons and a hammer. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Lampoon |
Replaced all bolts. |
05/00, 09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Late for Dinner Again |
Replaced the last pro bolt. Other bolts are bad, especially the second bolt. |
08/11 |
Dan McDevitt, Greg Barnes |
| Little Sheba |
Pulled 3, placed 3,
pitch 2 (R rated, though book doesn't mention); all bolts
bomber (P1 anchors replaced already) The second pitch of Lampoon
is a more logical and better protected route (there's a 30'
wide ledge at the base of the 2nd pitch). |
05/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Lord Caffeine |
Replaced one bolt at anchor, extra 1/4" bolt removed (one good bolt already). |
2007 |
Greg Barnes |
| Lord of the Overhigh |
Replaced pitch one anchor; all bolts higher are bad. |
2007 |
Greg Barnes |
| Luke Skywalker |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| Lunar Leap |
Replaced 5 protection
bolts. All bolts except first protection bolt on pitch 1 are
bomber. Fixed pin between prot. bolts pitch 2 checked to be
bomber. |
10/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Malletosis |
|
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| Maniac's Maneuver |
Replaced the single-bolt belay with two bolts. Note that this 39-year-old single bolt belay was only a 1" long rusty bolt! |
10/11 |
Greg Barnes |
| Middle Earth |
All bolts replaced except doubled pro bolt pitch 3 (now a single good bolt) and the bolt by the flake (removed, good cam placements available). |
08/08 |
Karen Chaltikian, Peter Valchev, Greg Barnes |
| Moaner |
Replaced 1 pro bolt. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Meltdown |
All bolts replaced. |
2010 |
Logan Talbott |
| Mere Image |
Replaced 5 bolts; 5
protection, 1 at anchor. |
6/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Mosquito |
Replaced 2nd anchor bolt. |
08/05 |
Bryan Law, George Ridgely, Greg Barnes
|
| Motivated By Food |
Replaced 5 bolts, including
last pitch anchors. |
10/00 |
Greg Barnes |
| Mr Kamps |
Replaced all 18 bolts. |
08/02 |
Will Baker, Drew Rollins |
| Myopia |
Replaced all eight bolts (6 protection, 2 belay). |
08/06 |
Bruce Hildenbrand,
Clint Cummins |
| Names in the Guidebook |
Replaced 3 pro bolts |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Needle Spoon |
Martin Ziebell rebolted
this route in 1995-96. |
|
|
| Nerve Wrack Point |
Replaced all bolts.
Several doubled 1/4" bolts were replaced with single modern
bolts. |
08/02 |
Rojer Brown, Greg Barnes |
| No Rock Nazis |
Replaced original
pitch 1 anchor and all 4 protection bolts on pitch 2. Note
that there is a modern 2-bolt anchor above the steep section
of the first pitch but before the 30' traverse to the right
to gain the original pitch 1 anchor. |
06/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Northwest Books, Lembert
Dome |
The first pitch bolt
was replaced by Paul Belkis in 1998. Bolt shown on second pitch
in Reid/Falkenstein guide was pulled years ago; there is an
excellent thin cam placement nearby. |
|
|
| Old Goats |
Replaced all bolts.
First pitch has 5.7 with no pro for a long while before getting
to the single bolt. Small/medium hexes/very large nuts are strongly
recommended to make a safe belay in the corner 20' above this
bolt. |
05/00, 07/02 |
Greg barnes Roger Brown |
| Omega Race |
replaced all bolts. |
2003 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes,
Brandon
Lampley |
| One Toke Over The Line |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| On The Lamb/Paralysis |
Replaced the anchor.
This anchor is 8' below the crack at a lower-angle knobby section,
and is hard to spot from On The Lamb; most easily found by looking
carefully at logical belay spots. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Ooze and Ahs |
Replaced last pro bolt on top pitch. |
10/02 |
Greg Barnes, Rachel Arst |
| OZ |
All bolts newer 5/16"
or 3/8"-- hangers on last pitch 10a traverse bolts are
Leepers, although the bolts are 3/8" (1999); Replaced all 3 protection bolts on last pitch. (07/06) |
1999,
07/06 |
Matt Luck, Greg DeMatteo;
(99) Austin Archer, Greg Barnes--02, Greg Barnes
(07/06) |
| Paiste Formula |
Replaced all bolts. |
2003 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
|
| Paris is Burning |
Replaced all bolts. |
2003 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
|
| Patsy’s Safari |
Replaced 3 pro bolts. This route is between Rad School and Alive at Leads, and is in the old Roper
guidebook, but not in the Reid/Falkenstein guide.
|
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Pebble Beach |
All bolts replaced.
There are only 6 bolts on this climb, not 7 as the guide shows;
the third bolt next to the "5.9" is not there, and
the bolt to the left before the indicated 3 bolts is much closer
to the others (so there are 3 bolts in only 20', but the first
is the bolt shown down and left). Pro for the first pitch anchor
is nuts and cams to 1.25"; the climbing is excellent and
deserves a star or two. NOTE: Bolt added in middle of second
pitch in 2003 by first ascent party.
|
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Pencilitus |
Replaced 1 bolt. All
bolts are now 3/8". |
1998 |
Derek Larson |
| Pencil-Necked Geek |
Replaced all bolts,
removed excess bolt at pitch 2 belay. |
08/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Peter, Peter |
Replaced all bolts with personal gear, and one bolt added to the first pitch with approval of Roger Breedlove. |
2006
2007 |
Ed Hartouni & friends |
| Piece de Resistance |
Replaced nearly all bolts, including one on second pitch (not shown in topo but confirmed as original by Tom Higgins). Click here for details |
08/11 |
Elmar Stefke |
| Piece of Grass |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann
|
| The Pinhead |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| Pippin |
Replaced all 3 bolts. |
08/08 |
Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes |
| Pirouette Roof |
All bolts replaced,
and many added, to this excellent route, around 1999/2000, by
Chris Falkenstein (who did the first ascent). The route is no
longer runout (now about 10 bolts on the first pitch). |
|
|
| Platypus |
Replaced 2 bolts. Anchor
now has 2 3/8" bolts. |
|
Derek Larson |
| Polski Wyrob |
One bolt at anchor replaced.
Other is 1/4" with stainless SMC hanger. All protection
bolts are 1/4". |
07/02 |
Greg Barnes |
| Pothole Dome, West Face
toprope anchors. |
8 bolts replaced at
5 anchors. Six top-rope anchors of 2 or 3 bolts are found in
two different areas along the West face of Pothole Dome (these
are not shown in Reid/Falkenstein guide). Each now has at least
one good bolt.
|
2001. 2002 |
Greg Barnes &
Tuol. SAR folks
|
| Prince of Pleasure |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| Prognosis |
Replaced 2 bolts. Anchor
now has two 3/8" bolts. |
1998 |
Dereck Larson |
| Pumper |
Replaced both anchor bolts. |
11/06 |
Greg Barnes |
| Pussy Paws |
Replaced all bolts. |
|
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann, Roger Brown |
| Quiet Desperation |
Replaced one bolt at
the pitch 3 belay; pitch 4 protection bolts bad, and most
other bolts probably bad (2001). Replaced all bolts (08/05). |
09/01,
08/05 |
Greg Barnes, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann (08/05) |
| Razor Back |
Replaced all bad bolts. |
08/04 |
Pat &
Tuolumne SAR team folks. |
| R.C.A. |
Replaced a bolt at
the pitch 1 anchor (already one good bolt), and replaced the
protection bolt on pitch 2. Small TCUs, nuts, and especially
small tri-cams can be used at several points on the second pitch.
Pitch 2 anchor is good bolts on the ledge. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Rock Lobster |
Replaced all protection
bolts except bolt on left variation to last pitch (this bolt
not shown on topo). |
06/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Rock Vixen |
Replaced the bolt. The
bolt is very hard to spot, about 40' up. Easiest to locate by
standing well back from the wall after finding the logical start,
and looking for a short 2" wide white streak (where lichen
was killed by the rust coming from the old bolt). Then remember
where it was when climbing. This route is excellent, but run-out,
and has challenging route finding. Pro to 2", including
very small cams for horizontal cracks. |
08/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Rocky Horror |
Replaced 1 pro bolt. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Roseanne |
Replaced all bolts except one bolt on 2nd/3rd pitch that was missed |
2002 |
Drew Rollins |
| Sausalito Archie’s Overhang |
Replaced 4 bolts: 3 on initial traverse (book
shows only 2), and first of the two protection bolts on the 4th pitch. The one remaining old bolt is only
4’ left of a good bolt and 3’ right of a good crack.
3 pitons re-seated, one removed (broken eye), modern thin cams protect where this piton was removed.
|
11/06 |
Greg Barnes |
| Scorpion |
Replaced all bolts. |
|
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann, Roger Brown |
| Scratch & Sniff |
Replaced the first protection
bolt, a 1/4" with Leeper hanger, with 1/2" stainless
bolt. Webbing at anchor replaced with Mussy hooks. |
2002 |
Greg Barnes, Austin
Archer |
| Second Coming |
Special Note: Fixed
nuts missing, so bring extra to leave, or continue to top. |
|
|
| Shadow of Doubt |
Second protection bolt
and one bolt at anchor replaced. All other bolts on this climb
are 1/4", but the first protection bolt is doubled 1/4"
bolts which you can equalize. Update: All bolts replaced except one bolt on 2nd/3rd pitch that was missed |
|
Benjamin Kumli &
friends |
| Shambles |
Replaced 7 bolts. |
07/05 |
Bob Jensen |
| Sharky’s End |
Replaced the bolt. |
2003 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Shot In The Dark |
Replaced all 3 bolts,
and fixed pin 20' off the ground was re-seated (the pin is not
shown on topo). |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Sleeper |
Replaced all bolts.
Note that 3rd protection bolt on pitch above On The Lamb is
WAY right at a small left-facing corner. |
07/02 |
Karin Wuhrmann, Roger
Brown, Greg Barnes |
| Slipstream |
Replaced all bolts on
first 3 pitches. |
2003 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes |
| Snap Crackle & Pop |
Replaced 3 pro bolts. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Sorcerer's Apprentice |
Four key bolts replaced:
1 at pitch 2 belay, the bolt before the crux 11a, 1 at pitch
3 belay, and the protection bolt before the 10b crux on pitch
6. Most other bolts are bad, but a few 5/16" and a 3/8"
are at the other key points. |
08/02 |
Will Baker, Drew Rollins |
| South Crack |
Removed the protection
bolt on pitch 4. This bolt was not original, and about 8' above
the easiest traverse. TM Herbert has requested that a new bolt
be added in a better location lower on the traverse, but currently
there are no protection bolts. Note that this old bolt was not
indicated on the normal topo. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| South Face Rappel Route,
Puppy Dome |
Pulled 1; placed 1
at anchor. |
08/02 |
Greg Barnes |
| Speed of Life |
Replaced both anchors with 2 good bolts at the request of both members of the first ascent team.
Piles of webbing, one ¼” bolt, three nuts, a piton,
and fixed knot jams removed. |
09/06 |
Josh Janes, Jonathan DuSaint, Greg Barnes
|
| Steep Thrills |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| Step It Up & Go |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| Streakin’ |
Replaced 3 bolts. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| Sunshine |
Replaced first pro bolt left variation; Replaced anchor top of pitch 2 , some bolts at higher anchors may have been replaced. Left variation pitch one anchor still bad, and 2nd pitch 5.10c variation has bad bolts |
|
Drew Rollins & friends,
Greg Barnes |
| Sweet Jesus |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| Sweet Nothings |
Replaced anchor. |
08/05 |
Bryan Law, George Ridgely, Greg Barnes |
| Swinger (Lechlinkski
Flake) |
Second pitch anchor
- the original top of Lechlinkski Flake, done prior to the complete
Swinger - replaced. All bolts above the anchor on top of the
flake are probably 1/4". |
08/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann, Sean |
| Swiss Orange Chip |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| The Coming |
Replaced the 34-year-old
bolt. Note that the rappel to Come and Get It from the top of
the 3rd pitch is off of fixed nuts that may or may not be there,
and the rap is 190' NOT 150'. You can rap 150' to a ledge, then
40' to Come and Get It, by leaving LONG slings around a large
block. |
08/02 |
Greg Barnes,Karin Wuhrmann |
| The Sting |
Replaced all 7 bolts:
3 protection bolts, anchors at pitch 2 and at the top (top ones
shared with Rock Lobster). The 3rd protection bolt had been
missing for years, with only the 1/4" hole left; this bolt
is located after the traverse to the mantle. |
06/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Sunshine |
Replaced 2 bolts. Route
now has some good bolts and some bad. |
1998 |
Derek Larson |
| Super Chicken |
Replaced all bolts. |
1999, 2003. |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann. |
| Table of Contents |
Replaced 5+ bolts.
1st and 2nd anchors are bomber. Every other protection bolt
on second pitch is bomber. |
1998 |
Dereck Larson |
| Tales From The Crypt |
Replaced 2 protection
bolts and one anchor bolt; all bolts on first 2 pitches are
bomber. Two fixed pins on traverse also checked/re-seated; both
are good. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Tapwork Orange |
Replaced both protection
bolts. |
08/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Tenaya Canyon Rappels |
All 4 bolted rappel
stations replaced with 2 good bolts with rap ring hangers; replacement
webbing not needed except for optional rappel(s) from blocks. |
08/02 |
Rachel Nelson, Karin
Wuhrmann, Greg Stemmler, Greg Barnes |
| The Kid |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| The Way We Could Have Been |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| The Way We Were |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger brown |
| Third World |
Replaced all 5 bolts. |
10/06 |
Greg Barnes |
| Tips Ahoy |
Replaced 3 bolts; last
protection bolt is still 1/4", but on easier terrain and
even if it pulled the fall would not be bad. |
06/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Trilogy |
Replaced the first, second, and fourth bolts (third still bad - ran out of bolts). |
09/11 |
Tony Lewis, Jay Wood |
| Truck 'n Drive |
Second pitch replaced
by Paul Belkis; some bolts replaced by Tuolumne SAR in 1998.
All bolts are now 3/8". |
1998 |
|
| Twisted Sister |
Replaced 1 pro bolt. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| UFR (Myopia) |
Replaced all 8 bolts. |
08/06 |
Bruce Hildenbrand,
Clint Cummins |
| Undisputed Truth |
Replaced first pro bolt and one anchor bolt. Other bolts are bad |
08/08 |
Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes |
| Unknown route right
of Who's the Bosch |
Replaced all 5 protection
bolts on this fun--but a bit runout--5.8 route. |
07/02 |
Roger Brown, Greg Barnes |
| Unnatural Act |
Replaced all 6 protection
bolts, removed 2 extra 1/4" bolts; two bolts had been
doubled since the first bolt was terrible. Three fixed pitons
re-seated. |
08/04 |
Greg Barnes |
| Ursula |
Replaced all bolts
except one at pitch 2 anchor. Backup manky pin on first pitch
(5.10c crux) with bomber pro 3' right. |
09/02 |
Roger Brown |
| Vapor Lock |
Replaced all bolts. |
2003 |
Roger Brown |
| The Vision |
2002: Replaced first two pitches, removed 2 extra bolts (tripled belay bolts, doubled pro bolt). 2006: Replaced bolts on 3rd pitch; extra bolt at doubled pro bolt removed.
|
10/02
08/06 |
Greg Barnes, Rachel Arst ('02)
Bruce Hildenbrand,
Clint Cummins ('06) |
| Voice of the Crags |
Replaced all 7 bolts. |
09/01 |
Greg Barnes |
| Wailing Wall |
Replaced 1st pitch anchor. |
|
Paul Belkis |
| West Country |
replaced 4 bolts. All
belay and protection bolts are 3/8". |
1998 |
Derek Larson |
| Western Front |
Replaced 8 bolts. All
belays now have two 3/8" bolts. |
1998 |
Derek Larson, Greg
Barnes |
| Where the Action Is |
Replaced 2 pro bolts. |
2006 |
Roger Brown |
| White Flake |
Replaced both bolts.
The first pitch anchor is a single bolt, but at least it is
no longer a single 1/4" bolt! You can also use a 3-bolt belay
to the right by traversing. A 5/16" belay bolt along the upper
flake is not shown on the topo. |
08/01 |
Greg barnes |
| White Slab |
Replaced the bolt.
NOTE: topo erroneously shows 4 bolts on this climb. In reality,
there's only one bolt, located at the belay station shown as
having 2 bolts. You can back up this single bolt anchor with
3" cams at your feet. Other notes: this climb is 5.4 or 5.5,
not 5.7; pitch 1 and 2 link with a 60m rope. Final pitch is
5.2 with some pro and some suspect flakes; belay to the left
at top of Diaphoretic Spasms. |
07/01 |
Greg barnes |
| Who's the Bosch |
One bolt, a 5/16" buttonhead
with rusty Leeper hanger, replaced at anchor shared with Batteries
Not Included and a 5.8 to the right. |
07/02 |
Roger Brown, Greg barnes |
| Willies
Hand Jive |
Two bolts replaced
by Greg DeMatteo in '99; all others replaced 2004. |
1999 |
Greg DeMatteo,
Benjamin Kumli |
| Wrinkle in Time |
Replaced all bolts. |
2005 |
Roger Brown |
| You Asked
For It |
Replaced all bolts on
both variations. |
2003 |
Drew Rollins, Karin
Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes |
| Zee Tree |
Replaced first 4 bolts; all others good. |
07/05 |
Roger Brown |
| Unknown routes right of Zee Tree |
Replaced 4 anchor bolts and one pro bolt on 2 old unknown routes right of Zee Tree. At least one additional old pro bolt is still present. |
09/08 |
Greg Barnes, Shayd Forrest |
