| Archaeopteryx |
Replaced the protection bolt pitch 1, and one anchor bolt pitch 1. NOTE: guidebooks incorrectly list 3 protection bolts on this pitch; there is only 1.
|
05/07 |
Greg Barnes, Josh Janes |
| American Ghostdance |
Replaced bad hangers at first pitch belay with new hangers. |
04/07 |
Josh Thompson |
| Arrow Place |
Replaced all 4 anchor
bolts. |
11/02 |
Greg Barnes, Matthew
Schutz, Karin Wuhrmann |
| Bird Crack |
Replaced 1 bolt at 3-bolt anchor, removed extra (1 good). |
03/06 |
Greg Barnes Karin Wuhrmann |
| Black Orpheus |
Replaced all bolts, (15)
except the last bolt on the last pitch, which while original,
is very far to the left and is nearly always skipped to reduce
rope drag (or because the leader doesn't even spot it). |
03/02 |
Lawrence Garcia, Karin
Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes |
| Bodiddly |
Third protection bolt
- a 3/8" buttonhead with an old Leeper hanger - replaced. |
03/02 |
Laura Snider, Greg
Barnes |
| Breakaway |
Replaced webbing at pitch 2 anchor with quicklinks & heavy duty rap rings.
|
05/07 |
Josh Janes, Greg Barnes |
| Burlesque |
Replaced protection
bolt. |
04/06 |
Greg Barnes,
Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Captain Curmudgeon |
Replaced the first 2 pro bolts, the third is good. |
03/06 |
Greg Barnes |
| Cat Scratch Fever |
eplaced both bolts
at the first pitch anchor. |
03/06 |
Greg Barnes,
Anthony Anagnostou |
| Chicken Eruptus |
Replaced both protection
bolts. |
03/02 |
Laura Snider, Greg
Barnes |
| Chuckwalla (aka Chuckwalla
21) |
Replaced all bolts. |
11/02 |
Jorge Urioste, Greg
Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann |
| Coffee Generation |
NOTE: the bolt on this route is original, but it is a 3/8" bolt with good hanger (incorrectly reported as 1/4" in one guide). |
|
Greg Barnes |
| Cold September Corner |
One bolt at anchor replaced,
huge pile of webbing
removed, rap rings installed. |
03/04 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann, Maggie Merchant |
| Cole Essence |
Replaced one 1/4" anchor bolt; the other bolt was already 3/8".
|
05/07 |
Greg Barnes, Josh Janes |
| Crude Behavior |
All bolts replaced. |
06/10 |
Killis Howard |
| Crude Street Blues |
All pro bolts replaced. |
06/10 |
Killis Howard |
| Dark Shadows |
Replaced 5 bolts: first
pitch protection bolts, one bolt at pitch 3 belay, one bolt
at original pitch 4 belay, and the protection bolt on pitch
5. Most anchors higher on route are one old and one newer bolt,
and all can be backed up with natural gear. One protection bolt
off of a ledge on pitch 6 is an old rusty 1/4". |
10/01 |
Greg Barnes, Mark Limage,
Barry Hutten |
| Diet Delight |
Replaced the protection bolt. |
03/06 |
Greg Barnes, Paul Rasmussen, Bowe Ellis |
| Doobie Dance |
Replaced anchor on this
moderate route. |
03/02 |
Laura Snider. Greg
Barnes |
| Dream Of Wild Turkeys |
Replaced 39 bolts;
all bolts to pitch 11 except one each at pitch 10 and 11 belays,
and the old pitch 4 belay (usually skipped), which is one 3/8,
one 1/4" original bolts. Pitch 10 and 11 belays now have
one 3/8, one 1/2, and one cool double-clip point original Urisote
1/4" hanger; these hangers left at the request of Jorge
Urioste. Pitch 12 has one bolt and a belay station which likely
have original bolts, but can (probably) be backed up with natural
pro. Update 04/04: Second protection bolt on pitch 2
replaced. Note that the Swain guides incorrectly call this pitch
110'; it is actually 150', and can not be linked with the first
pitch with a 60m rope without simulclimbing.
|
03/01
04/04 |
Mike White, Rick Poedtke,
Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, Greg Barnes |
| Eagle Dance |
Replaced 72 bolts. All
bolts replaced except the 4 bolts on the last pitch (130' 5.9
crack + 4 bolts), and the fourth bolt on the short 5.10 pitch
above the bolt ladder (the Swain guidebook misses this 50' pitch
between the 5.8 A0 and the 7-bolt 5.10c). This latter bolt was
the only original Urioste protection bolt on the entire route
that was 3/8", and it is also right next to a 1.5"
crack. Greg Barnes, Lawrence Garcia, Karin Wuhrmann, plus some
key help lugging gear from BLM Climbing Ranger Jed Botsford,
and Dave Anderson, Paul Rasmussen, and Mike & Mark from
Canada. |
03/02 |
Greg Barnes, Lawrence
Garcia, Karin Wuhrmann, BLM Climbing Ranger Jed Botsford, Dave
Anderson, Paul Rasmussen, and Mike & Mark from Canada. |
| Early Times |
Replaced 18 bolts; all
bolts except 4th, 10th prot. bolts on pitch 1, and pitch 2 anchor
(one 1/4" and 1 3/8", usually skipped). |
04/01 |
Gary Fike, Greg Barnes |
| Epinephrine |
Replaced 6 bolts; all
protection bolts on pitches one and two. All bolts to the top
of the tower are bomber (thanks to Dan McQuade!), but almost
all protection bolts above are a mix of rusty 3/8" with
old (bad) SMC hangers and 1/4" bolts. There is a good 1/2"
bolt at each belay except the very last, which is an old 3/8"
and an old 1/4", but is easily backed up with a 3"
cam. We advise backing up the protection bolts where possible,
and using Screamers (2001).
Replaced 7 protection bolts (2 on pitch off Black Tower, 2 on pitch off Elephant's Trunk, 3 on next pitch (2007).
|
11/01
04/07
|
Greg Barnes, Jesse
Jackson, Jason Addy
Josh Thompson, John Wilder, Greg Barnes
|
| Fiddler On The Roof |
Replaced 3 bolts, one
at each of the first three anchors above the roof. |
10/01 |
Mike White, Greg Barnes,
Barry Hutten |
| The Flesh |
Replaced the pro bolt on the first pitch. |
04/07 |
Josh Thompson |
Fold Out/
Sesnuous Mortician |
Pitch 2 protection
bolt replaced. This was originally established as a huge traverse
variation to the left on pitch 2 of Fold Out (before Sensuous
Mortician was established), but is far more logical as a second
pitch to Sensuous Mortician.
|
05/05 |
Greg Barnes,
Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Forget Me Knot |
Replaced 2 bolts. |
11/02 |
Mike White, Rachel
Arst |
| Frigid Air Buttress |
Replaced the original
belay bolt (pitch 6 by Joanne
Urioste's original Red Book). |
04/06 |
Greg Barnes,
Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Friendship Route |
Replaced 3 bolts. |
03/02 |
Laura Snider, Greg
Barnes |
| Frogland |
Replaced 7 bolts. |
11/02 |
Mike White, Rachel
Arst. |
| Greased Lightning |
Replaced webbing at the anchor with quicklinks & heavy duty rap rings.
|
05/07 |
Josh Janes, Greg Barnes |
| Great Red Book |
Replaced all 5 bolts. |
11/02 |
Matthew Schutz, Rachel
Arst, Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes |
| Head Case |
Replaced 4 hangers. |
11/02 |
Matthew Schutz, Rachel
Arst, Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes |
| High Anxiety |
Replaced all
6 bolts; 2 protection bolts pitch on 2, anchor on pitch 2,
and 2 protection bolts on pitch 3. |
03/08 |
Greg Barnes, John
Wilder |
| Ixtlan |
Replaced 9 bolts; 7
protection bolts on pitch 1, and one bolt each at pitch 2
and 3 belays. Old (thin) SMC hangers on 3/8" bolts replaced
at belays 2 and 3 with camoflaged ring hangers. The four protection
bolts on pitch 3 are all original: first is 1/4", and
upper 3 are 3/8", all with original hangers. The first
3 are not needed with modern cams to 6". This pitch
is severely over-rated for those familiar with Yosemite offwidths;
it is 5.10a not 5.10+/11-. Pitch 2 anchor should be backed
up with 3.5-4" cams since the bolts are in somewhat
suspect blocks. Pitch 4 (a bolted squeeze chimney) has original
1/4" bolts,
and presumably the upper pitches have entirely original bolts.
One 60m rappel (i.e. two 60m ropes) easily reaches the ground
from the top of pitch 3. Move the knot over the edge when
rappelling to prevent stuck ropes. |
03/01 |
Jack Hoeflich, Matthew
Schutz, Greg Barnes |
| Joanne of Arch |
Replaced 2 bolts at the pitch 2 anchor. |
03/06 |
Greg Barnes, Bowe Ellis |
| Juggernaut |
Replaced anchor |
03/08 |
Josh Thompson, Greg
Barnes, Joe Denicola |
| Just In Case |
Replaced 1 hanger. |
11/02 |
Matthew Schutz, Rachel
Arst, Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes |
| Kemosabe |
Replaced the bolt. |
03/02 |
Laura Snider, Greg
Barnes |
| La Cierta Edad |
First 3 pitches replaced
- 5 protection bolts and 6 anchor bolts. First pitch is shared
with Breakaway(2004).
Replaced top anchor (all bolts now replaced), and 3 bolts on the raps shared with Unfinished Symphony (still some old bolts on the raps). (2007)
|
03/04
04/07
|
Chris Van Leuven,
Bryan Law,
Greg Barnes
Josh Thompson, Greg Barnes
|
| Lethal Weapon |
Replaced two bad bolts at the pitch 1 anchor with one good bolt; a third bolt was already good.
|
05/07 |
Josh Janes, Greg Barnes |
| Levitation 29 |
All bolts replaced. |
|
Mark Limage, Jorge
Urioste 1999; Greg
Barnes, Mike White, Karin Wuhrmann, René Vitins. |
| Lotta Balls |
Crux protection bolt
replaced, and one bolt at the first pitch belay anchor replaced. |
03/02 |
Laura Snider, Greg
Barnes |
| Mac & Ronnie with Cheese |
Replaced pro bolt that had recently pulled out completely (yikes!). |
12/09 |
Mike Moore |
| Mai Tai |
Replaced all 3 bolts.
Use the first pitch anchor on the Friendship Route to descend,
or finish Friendship Route and rappel Rob Roy. Either way requires
two ropes to descend. |
03/02 |
Laura Snider, Greg
Barnes |
| Meteor |
Replaced anchor on
pitch 1. |
03/08 |
Josh Thompson, Joe
Denicola, Greg Barnes |
| The Misunderstanding |
Replaced hangers at
pitch-2 anchor; all webbing removed and replaced with links
at bother anchors. |
05/05 |
Greg
Barnes, Josh Thompson |
| Mountain Beast |
Replaced all 10 ¼” bolts on pitches 4 & 5, and removed extra ¼” bolt. |
03/06 |
Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Hamid Aghdaee |
| Mushroom People |
Replaced slings with links/rap rings. |
04/07 |
|
| Nightcrawler |
Replaced 10 bolts: 6 pro bolts p3, anchor p3, 2 pro bolts p4. Anchors and one pro bolt p3 previously replaced, don't know by whom. Anchor on top of pitch 5 is old bolts. |
04/07 |
Matt Ruppell, Greg Barnes |
| No Laughing Matter/Serious
Business |
Replaced anchor. |
11/02 |
Greg Barnes,
Karin Wuhrmann |
| Only The Good Die Young |
Replaaced 23 bolts;
all bolts on route except last protection bolt on 5.11 traverse
on 4th pitch--which is an original Urioste 3/8" bolt--and
is best left unclipped to reduce rope drag anyway. |
10/01 |
Greg Barnes, Barry
Hutten |
| Out of Control |
Replaced anchor. |
11/02 |
Mike White, Justin
Shields, Emily Hazelton< |
| Overhanging Hangover |
Two bolts replaced on
first pitch, one extra bolt
removed. |
03/04 |
Chris Van Leuven, Bryan
Law |
| Parental Guidance |
Replaced 4 protection bolts, switched a homemade hanger for a good hanger on the one good original protection bolt; and removed a hangerless bolt which was the original 3rd protection bolt (which the FA team hung from to drill the one good bolt)
|
05/07 |
Josh Janes, Greg Barnes |
| Prince Of Darkness |
Replaced 57 bolts;
all remaining 1/4" protection bolts, and one at pitch 5
anchor. Two original bolts were left at pitch 5 anchor at the
request of Jorge Urioste. |
03/01 |
Mike White, Rick Poedtke,
Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, Greg Barnes |
| Refried Brains |
Replaced anchor p5 (one bolt had already broken off at anchor!), and 3 pro bolts p6 (first had been replaced previously). All bolts to the top of pitch 6 now good (original Joanne Urioste pitch numbering). |
04/07 |
Greg Barnes, Julie Haas |
| Ringtail |
Replaced all 16 bolts. |
11/02 |
Greg Barnes, Mike White,
Karin
Wuhrmann. |
| Risky Business |
Replaced all 1/4" bolts:
9 bolts replaced, 3 extra 1/4" bolts removed at anchors. |
10/01 |
Greg Barnes, Mark
Limage, Barry Hutten, Josh Thompson, Greg Barnes |
| Rob Roy |
Replaced all 5 bolts;
3 protection, and 2 at anchor. |
03/02 |
Laura Snider, Greg
Barnes |
| Rock Warrior |
replaced 27 bolts;
5 excess bolts pulled--which were left by earlier rebolters
with new bolts right next to them. All bolts to the top of pitch
6 replaced. Anchor for pitch 7 is one 1/4" and one fixed
nut; upper fixed protection unknown. |
03/01 |
Mike White, Rick Poedtke,
Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, Greg Barnes |
| Sandstone Samurai |
Replaced first protection
bolt (2001).
Replaced all 6 bolts pitch 1 (4 pro bolts, 2 anchor). Note that previously replaced bolt identified as Sandstone Samurai (from our BV Wall replacement in 2001) is not on that route, but on an unknown variation (probably to Rock Warrior). Also, there is an unknown route left of Sandstone Samurai (and right of American Ghostdance) with old 1/4" bolts (2007).
|
03/01
04/07
|
Greg Barnes
Josh Thompson, Matt Ruppell, Greg Barnes
|
| Schaeffer's Delight |
Replaced all 7 protection
bolts |
03/01 |
Rick Poedtke, Greg
Barnes |
| Slabba Dabba Do |
Replaced 3 bolts. |
11/01 |
Mike White, Rachel
Arst. |
| Small Purchase |
Replaced 2 bolts at anchor, removed 2 plus the hanger off of the 3rd. |
04/07 |
Julie Haas, Greg Barnes |
| Sour Mash |
Replaced 26 bolts. All
remaining bad bolts replaced. |
10/01 |
Mike White, Greg Barnes,
Barry Hutten |
| Sour Mash to Early Times
Connector pitch |
Replaced both protection
bolts on this Urioste 5.9 connector pitch, which leads left
from the top of the first 10a pitch of Sour Mash to the upper
part of pitch 2 of Early Times. |
10/01 |
Greg Barnes, Mike
White, Barry Hutten |
| Spare Rib |
13 bolts replaced:
all bolts on the first three pitches replaced, except the protection
bolt on pitch 1. This protection bolt was placed prior to the
invention of thin cams and the crack protects with any cams
in the 0.6"-1" range (not very "thin" by
today's standards; green, yellow, or red alien), and can also
be protected with nuts. The protection bolt on the
low-angle pitch 4 is still original, but
most parties rap from pitch 3.
|
05/05 |
Greg Barnes,
Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Spark Plug |
Replaced anchor |
03/04 |
Greg Barnes,
Karin
Wuhrmann |
| Triassic Sands |
replaced pitch 3 anchor,
pitch 4 protection bolt, and pitch 4 anchor (5 bolts total).
|
03/06 |
Greg Barnes, Anthony
Anagnostou, Constantine
Severis |
| The Next Century |
Replaced 2 bolts at
pitch 1 belay, and 6 hangers on 2nd. |
11/02 |
Sam Johnson, Karin
Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes |
| They Call the Wind %$#@! |
Replaced the second protection bolt. |
03/06 |
Greg Barnes |
| Triassic Sands |
Replaced 2 bolts; 3
excess bolts removed. Old anchor bolt replaced at pitch 2 anchor
(this bolt was in a flare above current anchor, and was eliminated,
and a good bolt placed next to two OK modern bolts at the current
anchor), and 4 protection bolts next to a loose flake on pitch
3 were replaced with one good bolt at the original second bolt.
These bolts may or may not have been original, and since there
is no solid pro due to the flake and since there are some loose/suspect
holds, consensus was that one should be replaced even though
the climbing is easy. |
11/01 |
Greg Barnes, Jesse
Jackson, Jason Addy |
| Ultraman |
Replaced all bolts (7 pro, 2 anchor) |
11/09 |
John Wilder |
| Welcome to Red Rocks |
Replaced the very sketchy 1/4" bolt with Leeper hanger which protected the crux.
|
05/07 |
Greg Barnes, Josh Janes. |
| Yellow Brick Road |
Replaced 13 bolts; all
remaining 1/4"bolts replaced. |
03/01 |
Mike White, Rick Poedtke,
Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, Greg Barnes |
| Y2K |
Replaced 2 hangers. |
11/02 |
Greg Barnes, Karin
Wuhrmann, Sam Johnson |
