 |
| |
Rebolting Clinic Outline
by Greg Barnes, ASCA President |
| |
Ethics
- image, access, FS fixed anchors ban, etc - replacing bolts inexorably tied to access - local ethics/rebolting practices - don't rebolt without checking with locals first
- contacting first ascensionists - especially on routes where bolts may have been added
- should the bolt be there? Many bolts should be eliminated not replaced
- what to replace with - get the right gear, talk to local rebolters, use camoflaged gear - common sense - don't bolt when crowded - hammering the wall is annoying to others
- once you start pulling a bolt, you MUST replace - never leave a route worse than before
- do you need to move the bolt? Reasons why - poor rock, poor placement, bad hole, etc - camouflaged hangers, bolt heads? Required in J Tree, do it everywhere. SS is camo for Yos.
Safety
- situational safety
- rappelling to bad bolts - climb nearby routes, etc - try not to need to clip the old mank!
- leading the routes - Zippers, Screamers - replacing anchor while on lead in case it blows
- eye protection - mandatory
- helmets - good idea, especially for anyone below rebolter(s) - dropped bolts dangerous!
- earplugs - good idea for long rebolting sessions, ringing is high-pitched
Spotting bad bolts
Pulling
- types of bolts
- techniques
- broken bolts
- expanding old holes - when you need new hole (excessive cratering, too sharply mis-angled original hole, too near other bolts or holes, bad rock, etc)
- when to hang on old to place new (rare); hooks for stabilizing on pendulum rappels
- patching old holes - also patch pre-existing old holes, which are common…
Placing
- anchor positions, rap anchor types/setups, rock type & anchor type
- drilling hole - light, quick taps when expanding old hole, frequent cleaning with blow tube
- depth gauging - don't push it when hand-drilling until very experienced
- cleaning!! blow tube, nylon tube brush, repeat…
- placing bolt & hanger, tightening - over-tightening of Rawls rampant, not too tight
- cleaning surrounding rock - forget, may stain rock/kill lichen
Keeping track
- bolts labeled in bags
- on climb, group them in pockets or bags/remember somehow
- exactly what new bolts were placed, where
- easiest with log - use notebook
- any additional info you think is relevant
- Communicate to ASCA and other local rebolters
|
| |
|
 |
 |
 |
|