 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| |
|
12/21/01: Fixe continues pivotal support
11/21/01: $6000+ raised for Yosemite
11/20/01: The Fish named ASCA's "CDOFTSTB"
11/08/01: More Red Rocks bolt replacement
10/10/01: CRAG and ASCA replace anchors in the Owens River Gorge
9 /23/01: 3rd Annual Climb for Yosemite to be held 11/11/01
9/11/01: The Mazamas pledge support for the ASCA
9/01/01: Yosemite cleanup a big success
8/10/01: Black Diamond makes generous donation
8/10/01: Thousands of bolts replaced in the West, East gets in on the action
8/10/01: ASCA icon replaces 500th bolt
8/10/01: Big wall classics preserved in Yosemite
8/10/01: Human rebolting gene discovered, cloning begun
7/18/01: Hans Florine to give ASCA benefit slide shows
6/23/01: Upcoming Tuolumne rebolting clinic
6/20/01: Petzl donates 100 hangers
5/23/01: El Capitan's Zodiac Now Bomber
5/19/01: Upcoming Yosemite Valley rebolting clinic
5/10/01: The Nose nearing total replacement
3/2001: Rebolting report from Red Rocks
2/2001: Joshua Tree Bolt replacement clinic report
9/2000: El Cap cleanup day report
8/2000: Greg Barnes named Director of ASCA
2/2000: Zion rebolting
Fixe continues pivotal support.
Fixe USA and Fixe Spain are the ASCA's largest corporate supporters, through massive discounting of their hardware. They are continuing their essential support by stamping "ASCA" on their trademark bomber 40kN hangers for free, and THEN giving us a huge discount below their standard wholesale cost! The discount is so substantial that Fixe is basically making no money despite selling us thousands of bolts and hangers. Please support them! www.fixeusa.com
For the third straight year the folks from Climb For Yosemite put on a block-rockin´ fundraiser at Iron Works gym in Berkeley. A steady stream of climbers, coming together to celebrate and share climbing community spirit, pinched, pulled and slapped their way up the mostly overhanging walls. When the chalk dust settled, over $6000 had been raised for various climbing-related projects in Yosemite. Greg Barnes and the ASCA crew pitched in, proudly displaying a table full of ancient climbing bolts recently removed from Yosemite climbs and informing anyone who would listen about our past, present and future projects. Climb For Yosemite has been the ASCA´s largest contributor three years running so we´d like to heartily thank everyone who participated and was involved in this event. No one spreads a love of climbing and community like Jeremy Sugerman and Ruth Bender from Climb For Yosemite.
The support of the hundreds of climbers involved in Climb For Yosemite is essential in the ASCA´s continuing and extensive work in restoring Yosemite climbs to their original condition, and in maintaining the trails and climbing environment in as pristine a state as possible. Through Climb For Yosemite, climbers in the Bay Area are really putting muscle into maintaining & protecting their 'local' area!
The Fish named the ASCA´s "CDOFTSTB"
Russ "The Fish" Walling has signed on as the ASCA´s "Chief Director of Fixing Techie Stuff That Breaks." To date, he has helped the ASCA through numerous technological woes including a battery meltdown that nearly kept the ASCA from rebolting in The Owens River Gorge. Fish is also the man who introduced the climbing world to the greatest thing since Friends: The Mussy Hook. This sickly strong anchor, (which bears the name of Fish´s other alias) is the new rage in anchor technology. It is just as convenient as a cold shut but about 1,000,000 times safer. Even better, they are cheap enough for any dirtbag climber.
As with all ASCA volunteers, Fish will receive eternal good bolt Karma. That means that no bolt will ever break on him and he will be bestowed with "bolt vision." (It is well known that with "bolt vision" you will never worry about missing that hidden bolt on a runout climb.) You too can receive this good bolt Karma and bolt vision by helping the ASCA.
Also, be sure to visit Fish´s site for sweet climbing gear, beta, stories and an all around good time.
More Red Rocks bolt replacement
Aided by perfect weather, the ASCA replaced 70 bolts on classic climbs in Red Rocks, including complete replacement of remaining bad bolts on the multi-pitch classics Sour Mash and Only the Good Die Young. Again the BLM welcomed us with permits and camping fee waivers, and in addition they donated 30 camouflaged Metolius hangers to our efforts. Mike Ward at Desert Rock Sports donated over 30 hangers and some rappel hangers. Mark Limage and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides donated chain and a large bolt cutter (for the chain, not old bolts). Volunteers recruited from the campground came from as far away as Canada!
Next spring we hope to get to other routes such as Black Orpheus, Lotta Balls, etc. If you run across 1/4" bolts or nasty situations with fixed anchors, please email the details to the ASCA.
CRAG and ASCA replace anchors in the Owens River Gorge
Thanks to CRAG and the ASCA, climbers will find 20 new anchors at the Great Wall of China and Negress/Warm Up Wall at Owens River Gorge. Instead of the traditional cold shuts, usually with a backup Fixe sport clip, there are now "Mussy" hooks, which you've seen if you've done some of the newer routes like Dr. Evil. These are hugely thick tow hooks, attached to normal hangers with a quick-link; ultimate strength rating of 8,000 lbs (the quick-links: 10,500 lbs). The Mussy hooks have a gate, unlike most cold shuts. A 3rd bolt with a chain plus carabiner is also present on some of the routes. Yeah, some jerk may pilfer the biner, but by the time the hooks start wearing thin, you can put another one on as a backup. Even on the anchors with two hooks, if you don't like the look of a worn hook, just slide it up on the quick-link and add a leaver biner.
The Mussy hooks will vastly improve the safety margins of the anchors while preserving the tradition of super-convenient lower-off anchors. Cold shuts, while time proven, are also somewhat dicey. Also, there are no conventional hangers to clip with cold shuts if you don't like the look of the hook, while Mussy hooks are attached to normal hangers. This also means that they can be used as lower-off points for the first pitch of multi-pitch routes, since you can clip into the hangers to belay.
In addition, future replacement is much easier. Instead of having to unscrew the main bolt at the anchor every time you swap out a cold shut (and find a rusty mess inside), the Mussy hooks are easily swapped by unscrewing the quick link. The new bolts we are using are super bomber 1/2" stainless steel Rawl 5-pieces with big Fixe hangers.
While these new hooks seem insanely thick, and while the concept of them wearing to nothing appears infinitely far off, PLEASE use quickdraws when top-roping, and a rope bag to keep your rope free of metal-carving dust. You can clip the main bolt, the link, or the hook itself, just as long as you make sure the last person can safely transfer over to the fixed anchor.
We hope to switch more and more anchors in the Gorge to the new system over the coming months (and yearsÉ).
Thanks for the installation work go to Nan & Tony Puppo, Tom Costa, Steve Montesanto, Jerry & Sigrid Anderson, Chris McNamara, and Greg Barnes. Funding by CRAG and YOUR donations to the jars at Wilson's & the Rubber Room! Thanks to James Wilson/Wilson's Eastside Sports, and to Nan & Tony Puppo/The Rubber Room. Anchor replacement is also funded by Marty Lewis through his guidebook sales, and by the donation jar at Mammoth Mountaineering Supply. Special thanks to Russ Walling - FISH - for getting the hooks, and for the whole idea of Mussy hooks in the first place! If you have any questions, please email me. And please drop some money in the jars at Wilson's & The Rubber Room!
SAVE THE DATE - Third Annual Climb for Yosemite!
Sunday, November 11, 2001
Berkeley IronworksIt's time for the THIRD Annual Climb For Yosemite! This year's Climb will happen on November 11, 2000, at Berkeley Ironworks. You need to be there. It's hard to believe that it's been another year, but Autumn's here, and with it comes another Climb. Last year, well over 100 climbers in the Bay Area, along with their friends and families, came together for the SECOND annual Climb For Yosemite. By obtaining pledges for each foot they climbed on this day at Berkeley IronWorks Rock Climbing Gym, the climbers were able to raise over $7,000 to go towards trail maintenance and conservation programs in Yosemite National Park.
With that money, volunteers from the Bay Area and Yosemite (including some of you) performed trail maintenance in Yosemite in August of this year. Climb for Yosemite volunteers eradicated unnecessary climber's trails below El Cap and at the base of the Five Open Books, while maintaining and clearly marking others. (No signs were placed at the base of El Cap - the volunteers decided that they just weren't necessary.)
Now we are gearing up for the third annual Climb For Yosemite. This year's event will take place on November 11, 2000 at Berkeley Ironworks. Based on the positive response to last year's event, we expect another large turnout.
We want YOU to join in again. You can pick up a registration form at Mission Cliffs, at Class 5, or at Berkeley Ironworks, or by downloading one from the web site at www.climbforyosemite.org. Register, gather up sponsorship and show up at Berkeley Ironworks anytime between the hours of 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. on Sunday, November 11.
Just like last year, anyone who wants to participate and contribute, but not climb, can sponsor a climber, volunteer to help out on the day of the event or drop by Berkeley Ironworks on the 11th to bid on the silent auction and buy a string of raffle tickets. Auction and raffle items will again be donated by local businesses and outdoor companies from across the country. Food and entertainment will also be donated. All participants will get this year's stylish Climb for Yosemite t-shirt.All money raised by the Climb for Yosemite will once again go to funding cooperative projects through the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), a 501(c)(3) organization originally founded by Bay Area local Chris McNamara to replace the bolts on many of Yosemite's classic climbs.
For more information on the Third Annual Climb for Yosemite, or to download a registration form, visit the web site www.climbforyosemite.org. For information and directions to Berkeley Ironworks, check out www.touchstoneclimbing.com. To volunteer to help the day of the event or to make a monetary contribution, email the organizers at climbforyosemite@yahoo.com.
SEE YOU THERE!
The Mazamas, a mountaineering and climbing organization based in Portland OR, has donated $500 to ASCA for bolt and anchor replacement at Smith Rock.
The Mazamas use Smith for several of their climbing classes and many members climb there recreationally. The Mazamas, established in 1894, are one of the oldest climbing organizations in the country and are proud to contribute to the climbing community and the enhanced enjoyment and safety at Smith Rock. Ryan Lawson, a leader in new route development and anchor replacement at Smith in recent years, will head the rebolting work. Anyone wishing to further contribute to the ASCA Smith Rock account or to assist Ryan is invited to do so. Ryan Lawson: hilti77@aol.com www.mazamas.org
If you want to support this effort further, please indicate "Smith Rock Fund" on your ASCA donation
Yosemite cleanup report from Lincoln Else, Yosemite climbing ranger
"Climb for Yosemite," a volunteer organization from San Francisco, and a few dedicated locals showed up in full force on Saturday morning to kick some serious trail butt below the South West Face. With Tom Frost in the lead, we got rid of a ton of pointless (and confusing) trails and improved the "good" set of switch backs that lead up toward the West Face. Humping your bag up to Lurking Fear will still make you regret bringing that extra watermelon, but at least now it will be a little easier to find your way... not to mention that you might actually use the same trail as your partner instead of following someone else's mistake...We also put in a few hours in the afternoon working on the trail up to the "Five Open Books" area by Lower Yosemite Falls. There are at least four totally separate trails that lead up to the "Munginalla" and "Commitment" area, and we're hoping to narrow this down to one good trail by the end of the season. We put up a few wooden markers (the same low profile markers used in the cathedral area) to mark the "best" trail, and I'm hoping for another project weekend in mid September to finish the job.
I'll put out a post when I know the dates for sure, but there will most likely be another big volunteer work day on Saturday September 14th. I will hopefully be able to offer volunteers a free guaranteed place to stay in the volunteer campground, and I'll do my best to see if I can get the entrance fee waved as well. Thanks to all those who helped out last weekend, and I'll see you on the wall!
Cheers, -Link (Climbing Ranger in the Valley)
PS: The approach to Sacherer-Cracker has now officially been down graded from D4 to D1 (D as in dirt).
Black Diamond makes generous donation, 8/10/01
Black Diamond is helping out bolt replacement efforts with the donation of three Black Diamond Yosemite Hammers to the ASCA. With around 1000 hits per hand-drilled hole, ASCA rebolters abuse hammers (and elbows) more than anything else, and each Yosemite Hammer will see hundreds of bolts replaced in it's namesake area and elsewhere. A big thanks to Peter Metcalf and the employee owners of Black Diamond.
Thousands of bolts replaced in the West, East gets in on the action, 8/10/01
In June, climbers from the Rumney Climbers Association of Rumney, New Hampshire observed what they called a "public works day." The organization, after consulting first-ascentionists and soliciting input from local climbers, replaced dozens of aging bolts on a half-dozen local cliffs. When the dust cleared, 15-20 routes had been replaced at Rumney, one of the East's first climbing areas. Click here for a complete list of Rumney bolt replacement.
ASCA icon replaces 500th bolt, 8/10/01
The man once described as "part man, part drill," ASCA director Greg Barnes replaced his 500th bolt this summer in Tuolumne Meadows. Barnes replaced the milestone bolt on Blues Riff, a classic 5.11. Showing no signs of slowing his bolt-replacing efforts, Barnes also replaced aging bolts on the Tuolumne classics Aqua Knobby(5.9), The Sting(5.10b), and By Hook or By Crook(5.11b) as well as numerous other climbs. Click here to see a complete list of bolts replaced on Tuolumne Meadows' climbs.
Big wall classics preserved in Yosemite, 8/10/01
In Yosemite Valley, El Capitan received some attention from the ASCA this summer. John Dickey, Christian George, and Erik Sloan teamed up for a bolt-replacing ascent of the aid classic Zenyatta Mondatta. Son of Heart also saw all anchor (and most lead) bolts replaced. A few crucial lead and anchor bolts were replaced on Zodiac and Muir Wall. Click here for a complete list of bolts replaced on Yosemite's Big Walls.
Human rebolting gene discovered, cloning begun, 8/10/01
In a display of unparalleled devotion to the cause, Hans Florine has pledged his first born child to the ASCA. Hans, who has enthusiastically supported the ASCA for years through his slide-shows, informs us that he and wife Jacqueline have already begun an "intensive, bolt-replacement training regimen" for daughter Marianna (see photo), age one. (The ASCA is always excited about more people getting involved.) Florine also recently replaced the rappel anchors on Beggar's Buttress in Yosemite. Florine considers this one of Yosemite's finer routes and has gone as far as to say "Astroman has nothing on this climb." You can read about Hans and Beggar's Buttress in Mark Kroese's fantastic new book “Fifty Favorite Climbs.”
Hans Florine to give ASCA benefit slide shows, 7/18/01
Hans will be in South Dakota at the end of the month giving slide shows for the Pumpfest. Come on out! He will be doing the "20 Classics in 20 days" slide show as well as the "Pacific Ceiling Tour" and the "Half Dome and El Capitan in-a-day Solo" show. All are excellent shows that should not be missed. For dates and more details, visit Hans' Site.
Tuolumne rebolting clinic, 6/23/01
The American Safe Climbing Association will hold a bolt replacement clinic in Tuolumne Meadows on Saturday, June 23. We'll meet at the store/grill at 8:30 am.
Participants will learn how to pull old bolts, drill out the old hole to accept a modern camouflaged stainless steel bolt, and how to patch excess bolt holes. Choice of correct bolts, ethical and access considerations, rebolting safety, etc. will all compliment the central purpose of learning how to correctly replace old bolts with the best possible bolt that is reasonable to place by hand drilling.
Participants should bring: Harness, helmet, slings & biners, water & food, and sunglasses or other eye protection, as well as gear for climbing after the clinic! Any of the following would also help: Gri Gri/jumars/aiders, hand drill, hammer, blow tube, wrenches, a couple old beater biners/slings, a couple pitons (thin, med Lost Arrows), funkness, small bags/pouches.
Please RSVP to greg@safeclimbing.org
Petzl donates 100 hangers, 6/19/01
This summer, the ASCA hopes to close in on the years goal of replacing 1000 anchor bolts. With the generous donation of 100 bolt hangers, Petzl has made a huge step in helping us achieve that goal. The 100 Petzl hangers will go towards Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows and numerous other areas throughout the United States. The ASCA would like to give a special thanks to Dave Haavik and the folks at Petzl for making such a valuable contribution.
El Capitan's Zodiac is now BOMBER, 5/23/01
It took over four years, seven ascents and hours of toiling with a hand-drill, but the Zodiac now is completely replaced! Thanks to the efforts of Erik Sloan, Chris McNamara and others, every anchor now features two or three 3/8" stainless steel bolts and every lead bolt is either a new 1/4", 5/16" or 3/8" bolt. Many people may not know this, but before 1997, many of the lead bolts on Zodiac were breaking under body weight! In addition, most belay's consisted of 6-10 rusting quarter-inch bolts that required massive time and webbing to equalize safely.There are still many classic routes in Yosemite that desperately need replacement. You can help make other routes as bomber as the Zodiac by clicking here
Yosemite Valley rebolting clinic, 5/19/01
The American Safe Climbing Association will hold a bolt replacement clinic in Yosemite Valley on Saturday, May 19. We'll meet at the log circle next to Columbia Boulder/Midnight Lightning at 8:30am.
Participants will learn how to pull old bolts, drill out the old hole to accept a modern camouflaged stainless steel bolt, and how to patch excess bolt holes. Choice of correct bolts, ethical and access considerations, rebolting safety, etc. will all compliment the central purpose of learning how to correctly replace old bolts with the best possible bolt that is reasonable to place by hand drilling.
Participants should bring: Harness, helmet, slings & biners, water & food, and sunglasses or other eye protection, as well as gear for climbing after the clinic! Any of the following would also help: Gri Gri/jumars/aiders, hand drill, hammer, blow tube, wrenches, a couple old beater biners/slings, a couple pitons (thin, med Lost Arrows), funkness, small bags/pouches.
Please RSVP to greg@safeclimbing.org
The Nose nearing total replacement, 5/10/01
In early May, the ASCA replaced over 20 critical anchor and protection bolts on The Nose. The bolts were replaced between pitches pitches 6 and 17. Now every single anchor between those pitches is bomber with either 3/8" bolts or good natural gear. Their are only a few remaining anchor and protection bolt between Camp IV and the summit that need replacement. The ASCA hopes to replace these anchors by the end of the year. Thank you Jack Hoeflich, Werner Braun and Greg Barnes for the great replacement work!There has been ongoing bolt replacement on The Nose for years and the ASCA is by no means the only player. Todd Vogel did and excellent job replacing anchors on the final bolt ladder, Steve Sutton replaced the rap route from Dolt Tower to the ground and the riggers for "Star Trek V" got into the action when the replaced a 1/4" bolt on top of Texas Flake with a beefy 5/8" bolt.
Red Rocks Bolt Replacement, March 2001
With perfect weather and a great crew of rebolters, the ASCA cranked in Black Velvet Canyon, replacing 153 bolts in 5 days of work. With the help of Mark Limage of the Las Vegas Climbers' Liaison Council, and with the killer support of the Bureau of Land Management and climbing rangers Jed Botsford and Patrick Putnam, the old bolts piled up as completely stainless camouflaged bolts took their place! The super-popular Prince of Darkness had 57 bolts replaced, one of which popped with almost no pressure, and most of which were very weak. Dream of Wild Turkeys had all remaining bad bolts replaced to the top of pitch 11 (Urioste guide; Swain does not include upper pitches). Unfortunately, the usually rare 1/4" wedge-bolts were used by the first ascent teams, and out of 125 such bolts only one pulled without shearing, and even that one was not complete. This meant that the new bolts had to be placed in new holes, almost always within 6" of the original hole (unless the rock quality forced slight repositioning, never more than 18" away from the original hole). Other types of 1/4" bolts - usually the button or thread-head compression bolts - generally pulled cleanly and the original holes were enlarged for the new bolts.
This effort would not have been possible without the great support of the Southern Sierra Climbers Association, the advice and support of Joanne Urioste, Jorge Urioste, and Mike Ward, and especially the special use permit granted by the BLM which allowed the ASCA to replace bolts and to monitor expensive gear left at the wall. Additionally, fresh ropes donated by Bluewater were employed, and Screamers and Zippers donated by Yates kept our nerves a bit more under control while leading on bolts which we knew could break off with little effort (especially nice on the last day while leading the first pitch of Ixtlan!).
But most important: the rebolters volunteering time, sweat, and bloody knuckles! Big thanks go to Mike White, Rick Poedtke, Jack Hoeflich, Matthew Schutz, and Greg Barnes! Read about the details of the bolt replacement here.
ASCA Bolt Replacement Clinic Report
ASCA Director Greg Barnes presented a "How to replace unsafe bolts" clinic in Joshua Tree National Park Sunday, Feb 11, 2001. The clinic began with a presentation of different styles of bolts that have been used for climbing anchors from the 1930¹s through the early 1990¹s. Sample bolts were displayed and an explanation of their strengths and weaknesses was presented. Following this, descriptions and examples of the types of bolts ASCA uses to replace old bolts were displayed, and other bolts used in modern route development were examined for strengths and weaknesses. The group then hiked in from Split Rock to replace the 5 bad bolts and 1 broken bolt on the route For Peter (5.11c ***) now all 6 bolts are safe! Participants had an opportunity for some hands-on experience, providing them with the basic skills to replace bolts safely using hand drilling techniques.
Clinic participants included: Joe Piacentine (President, Bolt and Anchor Replacement Fund), Phil Spinelli (Board Member, Friends of Joshua Tree), Jamie Butler, Todd Snyder, Michael Gordon, Craig Clarence, Sue Hopkins, Diane Escobar, Jeff Neer, Mike Stubing, and Mike Matelich.
- report by Todd Snyder
Yosemite Valley Adopt-A-Crag Day, September 9th, 2000
A great turnout, beautiful weather, and great prizes highlighted the cleanup effort in Yosemite Valley for Adopt-A-Crag Day!
Adopt-A-Crag Day is a nationwide volunteer effort led by the Access Fund, part of the Kickin' Access campaign, celebrating the 10th anniversary of the Access Fund. Twenty-five people cleaned up the bases of El Capitan, Washington Column, and Half Dome, and five dedicated folks headed to the top of El Capitan to fill their haulbags with trash. Booty gear was eagerly sought after, and more than a few nuts and beater biners were collected, along with everything from books to watches to the most common trash of all, small pieces of duct tape. The bases of the walls were generally fairly clean, a testimony to individual cleanup efforts and to greater awareness on the part of wall climbers. At the end of the day, a raffle in El Cap Meadow provided every participant with at least one prize, from Patagonia, Rocknasium, DMM/Excalibur, and FiveTen.
Many thanks to the folks from Patagonia, for providing most of the prizes including a $400 Gore-Tex jacket, and for coming in force with volunteers. But most of all, thanks to the volunteers! Thank you Jody Bender, Steven Renner, Amy Stanfield, Greg Epperson, Michael Horlick, Hans Florine, Em Holland, Bruce Bindner, Leo Burk, Sally Ann, JP, Mark Markarian, Karen Christie, Ray Lassman, Rachel Miller, Gene Tani, Calvin Landraus, David Ehgki, John Blaubach, Andrew Klein, Brian Crowder, Chris Crowder, others who we missed, and especially to the YOSAR crew who rounded up pizzas after rounding up a ton of trash: Todd Snyder, Donna Sisson, Jack Hoeflich, Rachel Nelson, and Billy Merritt. Greg Barnes ASCA Director
Greg Barnes is the new Director of the ASCA
Founder & President Chris McNamara, overworked with his new guidebook, .com startup, and UC Berkeley, is turning management of the ASCA over to the new Director, Greg Barnes. Greg has been climbing for 6 years, and is the former retail manager at Planet Granite in Santa Clara, CA. He is a veteran campus organizer who helped start several activist groups, and a former PhD student in biochemistry. Greg has replaced hundreds of bolts in Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne, Joshua Tree, Calaveras Dome, Pinnacles, and crags on the Eastside. He reluctantly quit his job as a full-time climbing bum, and is relocating the ASCA to Mammoth Lakes, California!
ASCA sponsored bolt replacement on Moonlight Buttress
In February 2000, Jason Stevens, Jared Nielson and Jason Kraus, all of Utah, replaced the belay stations and bolt ladders on Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park.
The trio began early in the morning and hiked to the top of the buttress and rappelling down. They leap-frogged rappels and replaced every belay station to the ground, including the three rappels to the ground from the "Rocker Block". The top pitches required minor work. Most of the bolts were good, but several of the belay station still had Rivets and Star Driv-Ins. These were removed, the holes drilled out and 1/2" x 3 3/4" RAWL bolts put in their place. 3/8" coil chain was then attached to the hangers with 1/2" rapid links, equalized between at least two, sometimes three hangers. Epoxy was applied behind the hangers to prevent them from spinning in the future.
At the top of the 6th pitch, or the "standard" bivy ledge, several bolts were removed and replaced. The belay was replaced and equalized between 3 bolts. Several unnecessary bolts were removed and a few new bolts replaced for hanging portaledges and haulbags. The number of bolts at this belay was actually reduced by two.
In the OW/chimney pitch Stevens labored for nearly 45 minutes replacing the Star drive-in for the free route. This was a bolt placed on the FA and used by free climbers to protect this awkward, SCARY section of the route. The bolt was pulled out of the hole 3/4" and bent down on a 45 degree angle. With only 18 inches of clearance to swing the hammer and the rope constantly pulling him out of the chimney, the bolt was finally removed and replaced with an epoxy re-enforced 1/2 RAWL bolt. Subsequent free climbers will appreciate the security of this bomber bolt.
Below "The Roof" on the 5th pitch belay Krous was horrified as he removed two of the three belay bolts with his fingers. The third came out with a slight tug from a claw hammer. Having done the route several times, he vividly remembers clipping his portaledges to the time bombs and spending the night! This belay was replaced with three 1/2" bolts.
Below the roof on the Dihedral pitch the Star Driv-In placed on the first ascent was also replaced. This bolt serves as a belay for the "free route'. At the "Rocker Block" belay several bolts were replaced and chains added. The Rocker Block was also attached to the wall with chains and another bolt. If this refrigerator-sized block were to part company with the wall, the route would no longer "go free".
From here the party split up; Krous rappelled to the ground and replaced the rappel anchors while Stevens and Nielson traversed the third pitch bolt ladder and replaced the remaining belays and bolts. This pitch was littered with long gobs of webbing tied between bolts. Approximately 1/3 of the bolts on the pitch had ripped out and climbers simply tied strips of webbing between them to assist subsequent parties. Rusted, split-shaft bolts, Star-Driv-ins and broken rivets littered the face. These were pulled and new epoxy re-enforced bolts were put in their place. The number of bolts on this pitch was REDUCED by 3!
Moonlight Buttress is now has arguably the most bombproof anchors in the entire Desert Southwest. All belays have rappel chains and 1/2" bolts re-enforced with epoxy. Bolt ladders are now completely secure and the offensive gobs of webbing have been removed. The rappel anchors from the "Rocker Block" to the ground all have 3 new bolts and chains. Moonlight Buttress should continue to be a SAFE classic for decades to come.
ASCA-sponsored bolt replacement on Desert Shield
During the winter of 1998/99 Jason Stevens and Jared Nielson of Utah worked with the ASCA to replace bolts and belay stations on the upper headwall of Desert Shield (5.11 C3+).
The sixth pitch bolt ladder traverses right on a weakness of flakes and edges via hooks and sketchy pin placements. This was followed by dangerous bolts to an overhanging section low on the main headwall. Most of the first ascent bolts were poorly or incorrectly placed. Manky two inch "hardware store" sleeve bolts were used. All of the bolts were LOOSE with spinning hangers. Most remained in their holes by mechanical leverage only...they had no pullout strength WHATSOEVER. Two bolts were removed by hand, the remaining bolts were removed with a LEATHERMAN TOOL! A hammer and pry-bar were not required to remove any of them.
The fall potential before the replacement job was significant. It is feasible that up to 6 bolts could have been ripped in a fall. Due to the traversing, overhanging nature of the pitch, it could have resulted in a hard (bone breaking) fall in the corner and slabs below the headwall.There are still bad bolts on the pitch, most of them on the headwall near the belay station. The team began to run short on gear as they approached the belay, so they replaced every-other-bolt to reduce the fall potential. All of the replacement bolts were 3 3/4" RAWL bolts, except for 3 glued pins that were placed in holes where bolts had ripped out. These holes had been repeatedly nailed with baby angles and were useless for hooking or subsequent nailing. They were drilled out and replaced with glued #2 or #3 angles.
Stevens and Nielson also worked on the 3 headwall belay stations. This consisted mostly of tightening loose bolts and applying epoxy to prevent spinning in the future.
Additional information.
This website (http://www.rockandice.com/planet/clean/cl.html) is a brief summary of the first clean ascent of the route. Interesting comments are made about the condition of the sixth pitch bolt ladder, including the two bolts Steven and Nielson "removed by hand".
American
Safe Climbing Association
Box 1814, Bishop, CA 93515
(650) 843 1473
Website: http://www.safeclimbing.org/
E-mail: greg@safeclimbing.org
